Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Vegas just ain't for the sober


I first went to Las Vegas in 1969, I was enroute to see my brother graduate from Stanford. Driving into Vegas from Arizona you could see the glow from all of the neon lights from at least a 100 miles out in the desert. There was the strip with Caesar’s Palace, the Dunes Hotel, the Flamingo and all the other famous old gambling spots. Then there was downtown with Binions, the Four Queens and the giant neon cowboy smoking a cigarette. Other than that there was not a hell of a lot, no industry to speak of and a relatively small population. It was a strictly adult playground. Over the years I have been back maybe a dozen times, usually with a bunch of air traffic controllers attending our union's convention. We tended to start drinking around 10 in the morning and kept at it until our bodies gave out which was usually in the wee hours of the following morning. We were usually there for about three days and that was about the right amount of time to beat us up mentally and physically but not to kill us. We left hung over, broke and tired and talking about what a wonderful time we had. Those days are long gone and in some ways I think the Vegas of that era is gone also. Present day Las Vegas reminds me of going to Atlanta more than going to an oasis in the desert. It is a metropolis with a huge highway system and a large downtown area with the required glass and steel high rises. For sure there is still gambling and partying but it seems incidental to the overall city. Over a decade ago the city fathers made a concentrated effort to attract families and they have succeeded. Strollers and crying kids are everywhere, it has morphed into Disney World with slot machines. I would say Vegas has lost it's soul, but I am not sure it had one to lose.
Just a thought, being sober is a tough road, seeing clearly is not always a good thing. In many ways I prefer the pretense. However, our time in Vegas was well spent. We had just a super room, large sitting room with a recliner and everything we could ever want. During our two day stopover we were able to rest and recuperate from our week on the road. If you ever think I am not getting old, that sentence condemns me. I went to Las Vegas to rest? Damn, Damn and Damn. Seriously, we did have a great time. Continuing our tour of places to eat we sought out the best breakfast in town. Based upon reviews and input from locals we narrowed our search to two establishments. The Egg and I and The Hash House A Go Go. After careful research, (in reality we flipped a coin,) we went to the Egg and I. Good choice, maybe even a great choice. Jeannie had an omelet that had to seen and tasted to be believed. It was four eggs, ham, cheddar, sausage, red and green peppers, onions and mushrooms. It was topped with pinon nuts. We had heard about their banana nut muffin, fortunately it came with her breakfast. When the waitress brought our order, the muffin was still warm from the oven. Jeannie was in heaven. I ordered a breakfast burrito and it was excellent, but once again Jeannie made the better choice. It is kind of hard to explain the care and attention we received from the staff of the café. I am learning a new appreciation for small business owners who aspire to be the very best. When I contrast their work with most who just want to get by it is remarkable just how good some folks are at what they do. The Egg and I is a unique and wonderful place to eat.

Now lest you think we did not go out, we did and friends we were high rolling!! We went to Margritaville, played the slots in the Flamingo, went downtown to “Glitter Gulch” and played the slots in the Golden Nugget and ended up in a joint called “Terrible’s Casino” at three in the morning! Huh, how about that 3 AM and we old folks are sitting in the casino café doing a little people watching. Jeannie said, and I agree, there is no better place to watch people than late at night in a casino. Ever wonder what desperation looks like? Watch a woman ask her husband, “you lost it all?” and he lamely replies “well, that’s why we came here wasn’t it?” Then there are the little old ladies with their blue eye shadow running as they are robotically pulling the handle of the slot machine time after time after time. A stiletto between their false teeth ready to stab anyone attempting to take their slot machine. Now here is our definition of high rollers, Jeannie got up on the casino for a while, I never did. She ended breaking even and I think I may have lost twenty dollars. I don’t think any hotel is going to “comp” us our rooms next year.

We left Las Vegas at 9 AM and headed for Zion National Park and Salt Lake City.

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